Philippines: Incredible El Nido

We are posting this on December 29, 2013 - the post date above is not correct.

We departed the frosty Fairfax winter for the simmering warmth of island beaches. Flying first to Seoul, Korea then onward to steamy, Manila where we bedded down for an evening layover at a swanky Marriott near the airport. The following day we flew to the town of Puerto Princesa, on the Philippine island of Palawan for another evening layover, and on the next day, an all-day shuttle van (5+ hours) along a winding road cut through thick green jungle, lined with intermittent rice paddies. Our driver navigated the mountain passes far too fast - making the ride both beautiful and harrowing.

It was a long and tiring journey to our initended destination and it was Christmas eve by the time we arrived to El Nido. Our initial impressions were from a cliffside viewpoint just above town, were we could see some of the 52 impressive peaks of the jagged islands floating below and out to the shimmering sea. We arrived at our beach cottage, The Entalula, just as the sunset into the blue-green water. Our bungalow is a few steps from the shoreline and looks toward the tall peak of Cadlao island which is the closest to Palawan island, our homebase for 5 days of exploration. 

El Nido town was once a tiny seaside fishing village and small port that has been become a haven for international backpackers and travellers, as well as Filipinos on holiday. There's a nice mix of kind and friendly local people and globetrotters here. In town, the narrow streets have fruit stands, massage stalls, and trinket shacks, and are plied by local motor tricycle drivers (similar to the Thai tuk-tuk) vying for riders in town, or out to other close-by beaches on Palawan island. 

The islands in this part of the country are small and specatular. Black karst peaks jut up from the seas in bizarre and beautiful formations, dense with greenery and dotted with secret coves and tiny sandy beaches. Underwater swim colorful, tropical fish darting through an abundent rainbow of coral. 

Early on Christmas morning we boarded a local-type, pontoon boat for our first full-day adventure. The scenery was beathtaking from the moment we began motoring through the island chain. Our day was spent kayaking through crystal clear waters of hidden lagoons and into caverns and caves along the rocky cliffsides, snorkeling amid multihued sealife, and docking on those aforementioned sandy spots. In the afternoon our captain and crew prepared a bbq fish and chicken feast on the shoreline while we swam and played in the warm 80 degree waters. The "wow-factor" was off the charts, words are hard to find to describe the sights and scenes of the day. 

Back to our Entalula hotel just before sunset where we were treated to a free Christmas dinner hosted by our hotel owners. A whole roasted pig was prepared, served alongside goat stew, fresh fruits, and rice - a surprise feast for all the guests. We dined together on the sand infront of our cottage, celebrating the holy day with newfound friends.

Day two was more of the same. Another early morning boat adventure cruising between different but equally awesome islands offshore of Palawan, snorkeling with clown fish, strolling beaches on various islands, and beach lunch bbq. We had some strong rains for part of the day, but the weathered cleared in the afternoon and the day was another grand success.

Our final full day in El Nido was spent at a near-by beach called Las Casitas. To get there we hired a tricycle driver to take us up and over the hill, who then dropped us at a path that led through the jungle. Five minutes on a muddy walkway and we found ourselves at yet another incredibly scenic stretch of sand. Dozens of different islands came into view as we walked along the crescent shaped, palm-fringed cove and realized paradise found. We arrived early and spread out under a shady tree near a beach bar/restaraunt and as the day went on many others arrived to enjoy the beauty. There were Filipino families mingling and frolicking with the typical traveller crowd and it was clearly a place were everyone was feeling the joy and wonder of nature at her finest. We swam, read, lounged and drank delicious frozen mango smoothies as the sunny day slid by. As a side note, the beaches (and streets) in the El Nido area are not only pristine, they are some of the cleanest, litter-free islands we've ever visited. Finally, in the late afternoon our trike driver returned at the prearranged time and place to drive us back to out Entalula cottage, the day was a perfect finale to our first leg of our journey.