India: Kodai, Kumily & Kochin

From the city of Madurai we travelled away from the eastern side of the country and headed north and westward, up and into a mountainous region known as the Western Ghats, to the uncrowded and pleasant town of Kodaikanal. Situated at about 6500 feet, we found the cold, crisp, fresh air a welcome relief to the hot and humid climate we’d been experiencing in other areas. Kodai is populated by many Tibetans and North Indians and we found a rather “hip scene” in comparison to the temple towns. The cuisine also reflects this difference in local populace, and we enjoyed some flavors and spices that we hadn’t tasted on the east coast. While there we took a forested hillside walk around Kodai Lake, strolled through Bryant Park, and hiked along Coaker’s Walk – a short path with lovely mountain vistas.

Heading west from Kodai we drove through an area of many well-manicured tea plantations, following twisting, windy roads to the town of Kumily. Here we visited a wildlife park called Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, a place where elephants, tigers, Indian bison, bears, and several different monkey species roam the hills. We trekked through dense, lush jungle with a local guide who tracked and spotted various indigenous animals and pointed out many edible and medicinal plants for our viewing pleasure – very cool and spectacularly wild, especially so when a few blood-sucking leaches attached themselves to our ankles.

 

Moving as far west as possible we entered the state of Kerala, hitting the Malabar Coast where we stopped in the city of Kochi (also called as Kochin or Cochin). We based ourselves in the historical part of the city, Fort Kochi, an usually serene area of over 1 million people (small by Indian standards). Kochi is unlike any other region in India. Being on the Arabian Sea, the seaside city has drawn traders and explorers to its shores for over 600 years. There are giant Chinese fishing nets along the waterfront, and an interesting mélange of medieval Portuguese architecture, an area known as Jew Town with a 400-year old synagogue, and a decidedly colonial Dutch and British feel to the narrow, bus-free streets. While in Kochi we took a sunset boat cruise, and also had an all day trip along the coastline to a couple of beaches a bit north of town – which proved to be rather different.

On this trip through India we’ve observed many unusual habits and customs of the land. As previously mentioned, not only are the roadways chaotic and crazed and the honking of car horns incessant, but the drivers here have no hesitation in stopping their vehicles in the middle of the street to get out and take a rest stop, making for an even more dangerous situation. The streets have wandering cows, goats, and dogs, and the many barefooted pilgrims seem oblivious to the hazard of walking side-by-side along the road, which holds a breath taking, white-knuckled experience every time we get into a speeding car. The rules of the road simply do not apply here, and red lights are often ignored at one’s own peril.

Another thing that takes some getting used to is the Indian “head bob” – a side-to-side, “bobble head-like” shake of the noggin that can easily be mistaken for a “no” – but which really means, “I’m hearing you,” or “perhaps,” or “whatever.” The system of waiting your turn in line, or queuing up for a ticket or entry to an attraction, is also quite different than what we’re accustomed to, and the locals will always push ahead of anyone who is timidly expecting orderly behavior. That said, the people of this land are exceedingly friendly and inquisitive, and we are quite amazed by their willingness to assist us in all ways. Their ways may be foreign to us, but we’ve found this side of the world to be unlike anything else on our planet.